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The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America, by Michael Ruhlman
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"Well reported and heartfelt, Ruhlman communicates the passion that draws the acolyte to this precise and frantic profession."―The New York Times Book Review
Just over a decade ago, journalist Michael Ruhlman donned a chef's jacket and houndstooth-check pants to join the students at the Culinary Institute of America, the country's oldest and most influential cooking school. But The Making of a Chef is not just about holding a knife or slicing an onion; it's also about the nature and spirit of being a professional cook and the people who enter the profession. As Ruhlman―now an expert on the fundamentals of cooking―recounts his growing mastery of the skills of his adopted profession, he propels himself and his readers through a score of kitchens and classrooms in search of the elusive, unnameable elements of great food.
Incisively reported, with an insider's passion and attention to detail, The Making of a Chef remains the most vivid and compelling memoir of a professional culinary education on record.
- Sales Rank: #213613 in Books
- Brand: Ruhlman, Michael
- Published on: 2009-03-31
- Released on: 2009-03-31
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.27" h x .96" w x 5.44" l, .66 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 336 pages
Amazon.com Review
Journalist Michael Ruhlman talked his way into the CIA: the Culinary Institute of America, the Harvard of cooking schools. It had something to do with potatoes a grand-uncle had eaten deacades earlier, how the man could remember them so well for so long, buried as they had been in the middle of an elegant meal. Ruhlman wanted to learn how to cook potatoes like that--like an art--and the CIA seemed the place to go. The fun part of this book is that we all get to go along for the ride without having to endure the trauma of cooking school.
Ever wonder what goes on in a busy kitchen, why your meal comes late or shows up poorly cooked? The temptation is to blame the waiter, but there are a world of cooks behind those swinging doors, and Ruhlman marches you right into it. It's a world where, when everything is going right, time halts and consciousness expands. And when a few things go wrong, the earth begins to wobble on its axis. Ruhlamn has the writerly skills to make the education of a chef a visceral experience.
From School Library Journal
YAAThe Culinary Institute of America is known as "the Harvard of cooking schools" and many of this country's best-known chefs are graduates. Ruhlman enrolled as a student with the intention of writing this book, which begins as a chronicle of the intense, high-pressure grind of classes and cooking. However, it turns into an engrossing personal account as, his every effort critiqued, the author determines to become a student and not just impersonate one. YAs will enjoy Ruhlman's anecdotes about his instructors and his classmatesYsome of whom are still in their teens. The appendix offers a chart showing the course work for associate degrees. This will appeal to anyone aspiring to a career as a chef as well as to those interested in food preparation, presentation, and the restaurant industry in America.APatricia Noonan, Prince William Public Library, VA
Copyright 1998 Reed Business Information, Inc.
From Library Journal
After reading this title, boot camp and law school will seem like child's play. Ruhlman enrolled in the prestigious and expensive Culinary Institute of America (CIA) to get both material for a book and a culinary education. However, the drive and commitment required from day one, the demand for speed and precision, the pressure and perfectionism of the job?all hilariously and touchingly told?immediately erase his writer's detachment. But the tale goes beyond Ruhlman's anecdotes; he describes the curriculum with objective detail, so the reader also learns how a chef makes a flawless stock (and repairs a flawed one at a moment's notice), organizes the cooking station, prepares gourmet meals for crowds, and attains excellence and recognition. The short chart at the end shows the course work for the CIA's associate degrees. An enjoyable read, recommended for most collections and required for aspiring great chefs.?Wendy Miller, Lexington P.L., Ky.
Copyright 1997 Reed Business Information, Inc.
Most helpful customer reviews
98 of 105 people found the following review helpful.
Superior Journalistic Look at a Facinating Subject
By B. Marold
This 1997 second book by journalist Michael Ruhlman is his first of several essays and collaborations in writing about the upper reaches of the American culinary scene. The most fascinating thing about the book is in learning with Ruhlman, as an outsider to the culinary profession, exactly how demanding a job in the culinary arts can be. What is taken as a matter of course by people like Daniel Boulud and Jaques Pepin comes as a surprise to outsider Ruhlman. The surprise is in the commitment to performance which chefs are expected to make to maintain a service to their customers.
The book is a reporting on Ruhlman's taking an abbreviated version of the full curriculum at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), where only the President of the school and a few select senior instructors know of the author's real role at the school. This means that when the author did attend classes, he attended the full class, from start to finish, and was expected to perform as well as any other student. While the CIA has many of the appearances of a liberal arts college, it is much closer in practice to a trade school. One symptom of this is that the stocks produced by the basic kitchen skills classes are then used by other classes at the school and they are used by each of the four restaurants run by the school for students, faculty, and outside guests. In a sense, this is a mix of trade school and graduate school, where it is expected that no one will do work worthy of a grade less than a B-.
The epiphany that reveals how serious the culinary profession is about uninterrupted service comes early in the first year when the school is hit by a serious snowstorm and the author considers whether or not he should attempt the difficult trek into the school. The great revelation is that the school and the instructor of Ruhlman's class on that occasion did not expect it to be above and beyond the call of duty to make it to class, and they would have not thought twice about lowering Ruhlman's grade had he been a true, full time student.
When I left school, I was surprised at how much easier life at a job was compared to life in school. I am sure that had a lot to do with the fact that I entered a largely intellectual avocation where so much about how things are done and how long they will take can change from job to job and even lowly technicians are give some opening to contribute to setting target dates. Culinary trades are a much different kettle of fish, literally.
In a professional kitchen, the line cook is totally at the mercy of who happens to walk into the restaurant that day, and how many people walk into the restaurant that day, and at what time. The challenge is to prepare so well and exercise one's skills so often that making six or eight different dishes to perfection at a sauté station becomes second nature. Since it is the job of the CIA to teach you how to do that, the classes can be very demanding.
The first 30% of the book covers the introductory class on basic skills and the main character is the instructor of that class. The last 30% of the book covers time spent in two of the CIA's four practice restaurants. The middle of the book covers experiences in specialized classes for Garde Manger, baking, and other specialities. If you do not already know the serious difference between savory cooking and baking, the books chapter describing the baking class will clear this up in a big hurry.
I confess that I am very fond of this type of book. To me it represents a successful presentation of material that reality TV shows can never hope to achieve. The paradigm for this kind of writing is Tracy Kidder's book `The Soul of a New Machine', to which I would favorably compare this work. You should find it doubly interesting if, as I do, you have an interest in the how and why of the culinary arts and personalities.
Very highly recommended.
28 of 28 people found the following review helpful.
What It Really Takes ...
By Valjean
One can probably forgive Michael Ruhlman for being a bit obsessive. This volume pairs with his `Soul of a Chef' to provide a veritable one-two punch of cook training voyeurism; he has covered this field with skill and obvious enthusiasm. Between the two books I doubt he leaves any stone unturned in describing the various joys and horrors of modern culinary indoctrination. I'll also give him visionary credit: this particular book dates from 1997 - a full nine years before Bill Buford published his abused-apprentice tome `Heat', whose success will do doubt spawn dozens of ridiculous imitations.
Anyone writing seriously about chef training now appears almost automatically indebted to Mr. Ruhlman. And no wonder: the premise here is almost too good for any aspiring chef. The author goes undercover posing as a student at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA)--arguably the best culinary training school in the country, if not the world. (Only the teachers and administrators know his true identity and purpose.) The book often reads like cleaned-up notes from his various adventures--and that's really where the attraction lies. If you find being a virtual student at CIA potentially attractive, I suspect you'll love `The Making of a Chef'; Ruhlman not only give you what it's like, he truly gives you how it feels.
A stark example clarifies the emotions involved: apparently the weather during our hero's winter semester at CIA was the worst in years: many feet of snow dumped regularly. (The campus is in the Hudson Valley in New York State). At one juncture Ruhlman ponders not coming in to class--he's expected for an important test--due to the weather. And one of his teachers--after quietly hearing his decision--lets him have it over the phone: "We're different," he said. "We get there. It's part of what makes us a chef." (I strongly suspect Ruhlman chose his title from this exchange.) I was quiet. "We like it that way. That's why this place (CIA) never shuts down. And we're teaching the students this." The author learns quickly from this airing-out: "This is a physical world. The food is either finished at six o'clock or it's not. ... It wasn't simply that excuses were not accepted here--excuses had no meaning at all." (Italics mine.)
The detail here is nothing short of astounding. The cast of characters at CIA--from stock specialists to obsessives on bread cultures--never disappoint because we see what makes them tick and why each believes the work he's doing--and teaching--is important. And by taking us into this world and showing us just how passionate the teachers and students are we--at least those of us who love good cooking--also see its importance. This is a hard world but everyone loves being there. I found the best part of the author's style--and he's no slouch in general--came from the colorful way he showed me where that love come from in each individual he encounters.
Still, `Making' is not perfect. Ruhlman sets out a strict curriculum format--plowing through each semester, each class in chronological order--and never varies, making for a few dull interludes and redundancies. It's not an awful setup, but some variation would have been welcome; the author clearly loves some aspects of his visit (grill station, bread-making) more than others.
Of course, ultimately Michael Ruhlman is not a chef or even a chef-in-training. He's a journalist, and no matter how immersed he becomes in CIA's world we never lose sight of his voyeurism. This perspective has a few downsides, e.g., any tension about failing or even displeasing a teacher has to be conveyed second-hand through his fellow student's experiences. But I found the detachment ultimately very successful. I didn't want to know what's it's like to be a CIA student in the sense of getting inside anyone's head. I wanted to know what rigors must be overcome by anyone to even begin the journey of becoming a top-line chef. And `The Making of a Chef' was a hugely instructive and entertaining guide.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
A Foodie Must
By Patty
What can I say? It's Michael Ruhlman! LOVE THIS BOOK. He writes clearly and keeps your interest so well.
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